Noir Epices was included in the initial nine scents that the Frederic Malle brand came out with way back when, because the formula was sold as a bundle with Edmond Roudnitska’s Parfum de Therese. Edmond had made that scent for his wife and Malle wanted the perfume in his collection of perfumes since Roudnitska was a legendary perfumer and cultural critic. With the formula for Parfum de Therese, came Noir Epices, composed by his son. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Although they’re all loved by perfume lovers, let’s face it, Noir Epices and Parfum de Therese were not best-sellers at the Malle counter in recent years, and I hardly hear anyone talk about this one. I can understand why. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Spices are hard on the palate and surprise and shock people instead of gently wooing them with sweetness. Noir Epices opens with a spice box – cinnamon, cloves, almost mentholated and refreshing. Geranium adds to the herbal nature to this box of fun, and a tangerine note that’s sweet and mouth-watering, the tartness adding another layer of freshness to the cool spices. A woodsy base with patchouli that reminds me of Portrait of a Lady but this one isn’t as bracing and sharp thanks to the mellowing effects of vanilla. It’s a cross between a Chypre and an amber, oranges taking the place of more typical citruses, the surprising warm spices in the middle, and a more mellow finish. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
When I saw that Malle was leaving his brand last summer, I had to get this bottle, because I knew I’d have regrets if it disappeared and I never got to smell it again. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
