L’Erbolario Meharees from Italy

Posted on February 10, 2025 by Henna


It’s vanilla season, and Meharees is my daily driver. Not only does the lemon-sugar accord work well on its own, but it layers well without almost every other vanilla in my collection. The hint of cinnamon is just right and adds a sparkle that doesn’t go overboard. This is such a happy and sunny scent that nothing can go wrong on the day I wear Meharees.
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L’Erbolario is an Italian retailer that’s kind of like The Body Shop. They have bath and body products at their own stores and I picked up this bottle when I was in Italy earlier this year. It’s well-known in the perfume community but maybe not everywhere else, and it often gets compared to Musc Ravageur but without any of the purr of musk in the drydown, and the use of incense that reminds me of Shalimar. It smells a little thin and not as full-bodied as the Malle, but for a 1/10th of the price, I can let that go.
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If you go to Italy, it’s worth popping into L’Erbolario to seek this one out.

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Dior New Look Perfume Review

Posted on February 7, 2025 by Henna

If nobody was talking about Kurkdjian and Dior before, they’re certainly talking about them now. Francis Kurkdjan, famous for BR 540, has been remaking some of the Dior perfumes while also launching his own scents for the brand. While his interviews with fashion magazines would have you believe that he’s invested in the heritage of Dior perfumes, the perfume lovers are stocking up on old Dior bottles before they’re impossible to find, because one by one, Dior is taking some well-loved favourites and having Kurkdjian remake them, instead of launching the perfumes under a new name. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

The only thing worst than a reformulation is a remake because at least the former shows an attempt to respect the original, while the latter just creates confusion. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

New Look is a remake and just like the former, references Christian Dior’s debut collection but the perfume is anything but nostalgic. A simple blend of aldehydes and incense, New Look reads clean and effortless, bringing to mind concrete and glass. The juice would have worked as a Lutens or a Malle, that’s how strange it feels, built around a concept instead of raw materials. It’s a designer made for niche lovers.

It also reminds me of why Kurkdjian became famous – the hit BR540 is famously a simple formula that is an overdose of just a few materials, and New Look feels the same.  I’m not an expert in figuring out what’s in it, but the aldehydes stick around longer than in any other perfume I’ve had, and they’re cold and metallic.  It’s an effect that’s pronounced instead of fleeting, and harkens back to the bold style of Baccarat Rouge. I really like it, even if it isn’t very forgiving. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

This one is for anyone bored of gourmands, vanilla, stereotypical churchy incense. Maybe it will attract a new set of perfume lovers ready to give Dior’s La Collection Privée a new look. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

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Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan

Posted on February 5, 2025 by Henna

Oct. 30
An amber for the last day of November, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan. The amber for those who want their ambers dry and herbal, not sweet and syrupy. A reference amber for its use of aromatics paired with resins. Oregano and bay leaf from your spice cupboard, a dash of vanilla paired with dry and dusty patchouli. Almost musty so that it reminds me of old books or a forgotten wooden desk drawer, so that’s the sandalwood peeking through. The muskiness of benzoin so that everything feels alive.

I wonder if the Sultan is referring to this being the best of the greatest of all ambers or is it that Amber is the sultan, the best of fragrance. Amber always bring out the grandiose side of people, so I’ll concede that in the dead of winter, Amber is king.

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Salt & Stone Santal and Vetiver Hand Cream review

Posted on February 4, 2025 by Henna

Here’s my reminder to myself to not buy scented hand cream, especially when the notes are written write on the packaging. I thought I had smelled the Salt & Stone hand cream in the Sephora but things always smell different once they make it home. Santal & Vetiver smells like a creamy green fig, like the department store counter with the snobby sales assistant, everything hidden away under glass. It’s like the woman in gold accessories and red lipstick and lacquered nails who knows more than she’s given credit for but chooses who she shares with. It’s the smell of the bottom of expensive shoes, the leather soles unworn and smooth. The ampersand poorly attempts faking pedigree while the sans-serif font gives everything away.

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Favourites From Watier Official

Posted on February 3, 2025 by Henna

I might be biased but I think that skincare made in Canada just understands the needs of this sometimes harsh climate, and that’s probably how I’ve ended up finishing this Watier Official face cream. It had a creamy, fluid, almost-lotion kind of feel but still hydrated and calmed my skin so well. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

The lip oil (in litchi here) has a cushiony finish that makes it better than every other lip oil I’ve tried (Dior’s? Way better than that one). ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

I’ve already shown how great that tubing mascara is, and the blush/highlight duo that’s in the compact. The lipstick is not full coverage so it wears like a gloss – just what you need in harsh winters. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Finally, yes, I cleaned the jar in the dishwasher, and I’m going to fill it with Cerave Healing Ointment from my huge jar and keep it in my car so that my hands don’t get overly chapped this winter. It’s another reason I love glass jars (even though I know they can be heavy and annoying to pack), but I always reuse them for something. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

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Best Sunscreen of 2024

Posted on January 31, 2025 by Henna

The best new sunscreen award goes to It Cosmetics Hello Sunshine, which is probably a launch that will only be noticed by makeup-wearers because it’s a makeup company launching a sunscreen. What this gives is a dewy but skin-like finish that’s easy to layer on top of other skincare. If you wear makeup, it will go on beautifully and stay on. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

That being said, the complaint I hear about the most when it comes to sunscreen is that it’s greasy, and people want something that’s matte and imperceptible on the skin, and this is not that. I still think that it gives us something that we haven’t seen a lot of which is a sunscreen that feels like a luxury skincare product instead of something prescribed. ⠀

I’ve also used this Bye Bye Dark Spot correcting concealer, and although it doesn’t really correct anything, it also has a glowy finish that I really like. I know that many of you had tried this concealer already, so let me know what you think. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

The Bye Bye Under Eye concealer… It’s old-school. Thick and stays put so if you find that you want something that is very long-lasting, that will the one that you want to try. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

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Loewe Popup at Holt Renfrew

Posted on January 30, 2025 by Henna

If you’re in Calgary, run, don’t walk, to the Loewe popup at Holt Renfrew right now. I’ve been telling everyone about Loewe perfumes after I tried some of them a couple of years ago, and their home scent products are not to be missed. The pop-up has the candles, home scents, incense, soaps, and so much more. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Old-school perfume lovers will already have Sisley’s Eau de Campagne in their collections, but if you’ve ever wanted that tomato leaf as a home scent, then you have to smell the Tomato Leaf candle in the store. It’s green, fresh, earthy and everything you want to usher in spring. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

I’ve always been a fan of 001 Man, but Anonimo caught my eye this time around probably because its peppery warm opening seemed perfect for a chilly day. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

If you have a favourite from this brand, let me know. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

 

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Chanel Beige and Chanel Les Exclusifs New Sizes

Posted on January 29, 2025 by Henna

Did you hear that Chanel will be offering the Les Exclusifs in 35ml formats? It’s a move that’s long overdue and one that is no doubt motivated by forecasted profits. So many perfume lovers prefer a smaller size because they know they’re not going to be able to wear lots of perfume. I bet that in the last, Chanel resisted travel sizes so that people who couldn’t afford a full bottle, just wouldn’t be able to get the Les Exclusifs (which are supposed to be inaccessible) but if nobody is buying the 200ml and the 75ml size is always sold-out, then maybe it’s time to give customers what they want.

Beige is the most tropical of Chanel’s Les Exclusifs collection. It features a Chanelade, yes, but also frangipani for the warmth, ylang-ylang for its freshness, and freesia for that shampoo accord. It’s approachable but still keeps you at arm’s length. It’s giving business casual. It’s giving work lunch. I love it. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

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Serge Lutens Changes

Posted on January 28, 2025 by Henna

What is happening with Serge Lutens?

First the reformulations, then the rebrand and the repackaging, pulling out of the US market, so suddenly that all the stock was sold to discounters, and now… discontinuation of the Gratte Ciel bottles, which honestly were poorly designed anyhow (slate-coloured writing on a black background? Whose idea was that?). So yes, those tall black bottles are 20% off right now at retail, and who knows what will happen to them. What might happen is that they could move some of the more popular scents to the bell jars but I don’t think that many of them are very popular. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

I wore Fleurs d’Oranger this week, and was out and about smelling like an actual mothball, because cooler weather doesn’t really let this scent warm up to release any of the spicier notes and the sweeter white florals. Also, I don’t know how well I can smell in cold air so it was straight-up indolic florals today and I just don’t know how popular that is – people seem to be more into vanillas and all kinds of gourmands, even unique musks with more different savoury facets, but tuberose, neroli, and orange blossom? I don’t see them being so popular. This bottle was a blind buy at Saks Off Fifth on Boxing Day years ago, and probably, one day, it will be gone. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

It’s the end of an era.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

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Fenty Beauty Favs

Posted on January 27, 2025 by Henna


We’re still at a point of looking back at the high points of the year, and the one beauty brand that I’ve gained a newfound respect for is Fenty Beauty. Since the brand was launched, I’ve gone through numerous Gloss Bombs and the Invisimatte Setting and Blotting Powder. I just ran out of my powder, and opened a powder and primer duo so I’m testing out the Fenty primer too. The good news is that it hydrates and plays well with sunscreen and foundation, but the bad news is that it doesn’t mattify my skin or really help my base last longer. I’ve been using the concealer regularly, which is why the name on it is rubbed away, and the lip liners are my favourite from any brand ever because they’re basically like long-wear lipsticks in slim packaging. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Last year, I was introduced to the body butter, and continue to use that even when it smells like sugar, because it works so well and the scent is one that I can get used to. ⠀⠀⠀

The plot twist to all of this was Butta Drop Hydrating Body Milk, which is pretty much scent-less, and ideal as a lotion for your desk so that you and your coworkers can use it without anyone getting a headache. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

This year brought us Fenty Hair, most of which is too thick for my super-fine hair but it smells so good that I use the shampoo regularly so that the scent can serve as an olfactory tropical escape.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Oh yeah, and in case this embarrassment of riches wasn’t enough, I’ve got the perfume (a fruity-patchouli scent) and I forgot to pull out the blushes because they’re not in the rotation right now. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Do you have a favourite from this brand? I would like a loose powder, a tubing mascara, long-wearing eye products for those of us with oily skin, and another perfume. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

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