Guerlain Lui Perfume Find

 

Sometimes I wake up with a scent in my nose and I know exactly the perfume I’m going to wear that day. Today it was Guerlain Lui.


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I had given up on finding a bottle of Guerlain Lui but then came across one and I had to have it. Yes, the bottle mimics a 1920’s art deco design (one of Guerlain’s own) but the scent is a 2017 creation. I can see why Guerlain discontinued it. Bottle one-offs are expensive to make and financially, it makes more sense to bottle all the scents in the same packaging.
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The opening reminds of candy – slightly sweet pear and vanilla, but maybe I’m smelling a herbal candy cough drop because there’s a menthol in here that’s still likable. It’s the cloves and the carnation together, and they add balance to the other notes which would make this a gourmand. Maybe this unique tiny bottle (a wee 50ml) didn’t get enough love when it came out because it’s pretty sedate but it’s got that Guerlain class that’s irresistible.

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Santa Maria Novella L’Iris Perfume Review

Here’s the thing: as gorgeous as the packaging for Santa Maria Novella is, and as much as I love collecting pretty bottles, once a get a whiff of a white musk accord, I can’t not smell it, and that’s what I get when I wear L’Iris.

The top notes are gorgeous – green and grassy, fresh, and slightly sweet.

But I was also reminded of Hiris by Hermes and if you want a reference Iris that smells fresh and outdoorsy, that one is easier to find.

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Diptyque L’Eau Trois

April 28
So you want to smell like a pine forest…L’Eau Trois was the third Diptyque scent to launch – in 1975. It’s one that’s only available at Diptyque boutiques and is a fresh woody incense scent. There’s pine and cedar and replicates the experience of walking in a pine forest but without the mud or the experience of earth. Light and fresh, it’s akin to wearing an incense and having it follow you around.

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Molinard Habanita

Beautiful perfume bottle hall of fame: Habanita by @molinardparfums

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Hima Jomo Loon

My choice for my scent of the day is Loon by @hima.jomo. The mineral rosy perfume is inspired by the pink salt of the Himalayas.

I tried this perfume in Milan and had to get a bottle when I got back home. Loon means salt in Punjabi and the Himalayas straddle the Punjabi region in many countries like a thread that ties sutures everything together, like the scents that pull us all together all over the world.

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Prada Infusion d’Iris edt

Here are the last of my neighbour’s irises and the edt version of Prada’s Infusion d’Iris.

The scent profiles that we associate with soap or baby powder were actually first found in perfume. For example, the blend of florals in Chanel No. 5 were such a hit that brands started trying to replicate that scent for their soaps, and now we have this scent that we, collectively, think of as soapy. Think of your basic ivory soap and you’ve got the scent in your head.

I bright this up because today I’m wearing Prada Infusion d’Iris edt and the easiest way to describe it is a powdery soap. I called Infusion de Tuberose soapy too, but this perfume has a real powdery facet to it too and it makes me feel as if I’ve dusted myself in fine baby powder.

I love that Prada wanted to create a softer version of their Infusion d’Iris eau de parfum, but instead of just creating a weaker version, they decided to give it a lighter texture. This perfume feels feathery and light, softer in texture rather than weaker in performance. It’s fresher and without the hard edges, and the iris is turned way up. If you like powdery perfumes (and I do) then this is the one to go for instead of the edp. If you like the edp but want a version that smells more iris-like then the edt might be what you’re looking for.

I’ll be smelling like this powdery soap this summer.

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New Chanel No. 5 L’Eau, Limited Edition Packaging

I couldn’t let this cute bottle not be appreciated. Chanel No. 5 L’Eau and my first time owning this scent. To my nose it’s so fresh and smells quite different from the No. 5 edp that I have.  This cute bottle is now sold out online.

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Rosendo Mateu #4

The person who wears Rosendo Mateu 4 benefits from vanilla’s sweetness in this perfume, because the truth is that they don’t care to be liked. They’re fine smelling like medicine from the oud, spicy leathery saffron, or like a spiced vanilla. If you come too close that’s because you need to and you’ll suffer the consequences… Rosendo Mateu #4 is the scent that rewards the wearer if they can wait out the bitter opening and let their skin warm up to the saffron and vanilla in the base. On me, it doesn’t take long and my nose goes straight to the vanilla. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

July 4

Rosendo Mateu, the perfumer of this fragrance, was a perfume executive for many years before he started his own eponymous line of scents, and as I smell No. 4 from his first line, I have to wonder if this would ever make it to another brand’s line because this scent is so interesting and different than most of what you’d smell at a department store. The main notes are written on the bottle, and the perfume is heavy on the saffron which reads like a spicy leathery cinnamon but also has the propensity to smell like band-aids. But if your brain can tune that out, combined with the vanilla, the effect is almost edible. The oud that keeps things in check – here, it’s green and wooden, like biting into bitter seed when you’re not expecting to. The bitterness smells like it belongs to a more masculine perfume, and keeps the vanilla and saffron from being too sweet. Still, this is a spicy warm perfume that envelopes the wearer and anyone who happens to be within arm’s length. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

I’ll admit that I got more than one compliment when I wore this, although I can never be sure if it’s just that people compliment anything they can smell. A jolt to the senses is always nice and so is a compliment. I missed the Rosendo Mateu booth at Esxence, but these are perfumes to be savoured slowly anyway. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

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A Winter Melody by Gucci – summer perfume without citrus

July 4
Calgary is finally having some warm weather. Time to spritz on something cooling and light but also… perfumey. Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden A Winter Melody is a rose-patchouli with cooling cypress as a top note. It really does smell wintery which makes it the perfect perfume to wear on a hot day. It’s a water perfume so you can mist on generously. The Gucci scents are under-rated in my opinion. Maybe because of the price… but they’re in beautiful bottles and I haven’t smelled anything cheap that comes close. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

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Ledda 14 Isla Coco Review

July 4
Juicy tangy citruses and coconut milk make Ledda the beachiest of beachy scents around. I have a few perfumes in this category, but many skew heavy on the florals, especially using tuberose. 14 Isla Coco has hints of jasmine and ylang ylang, but creamy coconut and the sparkly lemon/lime notes make this smell more you’re drinking a pina colada in the sun, covered head to toe in sunscreen, and sand between your toes. It’s transportive and my favourite Ledda to launch. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

The perfumer here is Frank Voelkl, who did all the other Ledda perfumes too.  He is also behind Glossier You and many Le Labo perfumes.

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