I recently tried perfume samples from House of Puente, and all the scents blew me away. Eliam Puente has created some modern classics using a high quantity of natural ingredients. They’re well-blended, natural-smelling (although there are synthetics in the perfume too), beautiful, powdery (I love powder) and some are slightly soapy. The samples I have are Medusa, Iris Doux, Vespertine, and Eaden.
Last year, I made it my mission to try every iris perfume I could get my hands on, and I found some that I loved, but now I’ve tried Iris Doux and the bar has been set even higher than before. Iris Doux is the most luxurious, opulent iris scent I’ve tried, and it’s clear that it is made with a high amount of natural ingredients – you can truly smell the difference. The iris is buttery soft, with a richness not found in most iris scents. There’s a good dose of powder, and a rootiness, but this perfume won’t smell like carrots so it stays out of the kitchen. The ylang-ylang and geranium keep it fresh, and jasmine and frangipani keep it friendly. This is not a cold serious iris. It’s also not comforting and cozy. It’s an approachable iris. It has a heart and a playful side. It reminds me of the feeling of visiting a tropical island where the atmosphere is sunny and friendly, and you’re comforted by the slower pace of life.
All 4 of these scents are powdery and floral.
Eaden is centred around jasmine and neroli and smells like a lush summer garden. If you miss the scent of jasmine or white florals, Eaden delivers them into your hands.
Medusa is another powdery jasmine but instead of being in a lush garden, there is a warmth. The jasmine here is with a civet note that purrs, bringing the perfume to life so that it’s living and breathing.
Verspertine is a tuberose bouquet, pretty and realistic.
Eliam is a self-taught perfumer who lives in Spain. He has a familiarity with many iconic (and probably not-so-iconic) perfumes and was inspired to create perfume when he acquired some raw materials. Although his scents are not all-natural, they use a high percentage of naturals that are bolstered by synthetics. Truly, this is how some of the best perfumes I’ve smelled are made. You can smell the high quality of each of the ingredients, but you’ll never become anosmic to the scents and they won’t make you sneezy. I’m biased – these are my favourite kinds of perfumes to wear and have.
Wanting to know more about the person behind these beautiful scents, I sent him five questions and he was nice enough to answer them. I love speaking with perfumers who aren’t afraid to mention their inspirations. There’s no gate-keeping here, Eliam’s perfumes are iconic enough to stand on their own, and he can still talk about his role models. Perfume doesn’t exist, and isn’t made, in a vacuum. Thank you, Eliam!
- You know your way around perfume – old and new – what’s a perfume that you consider to be a reference, and what is it a reference for?
This one is a hard one because I consider several as references, but to select one I’d choose Chanel No. 5. It’s a beautiful reference for how I like composing my perfumes where there’s a beautiful balance between classic notes and rich florals.
- In a time when brands are launching 3, 5, or even more scents at a time, you are launching 1 perfume right now – what is the rationale behind that?
I feel that when a perfume is ready it should be launched if the timing makes sense. In this case, though I’m working on various projects, Virescence felt finished and felt right for Spring, so I released it. In other instances, I may release more than one at a time which was the case early last year when I released Iris Doux and Vespertine together.
- What’s something you think people should keep in mind when they try your perfumes for the first time?
I’d like them to keep in mind that perfumery is about beauty, artistry, emotions, and discovery. It’s not just about trends, receiving compliments, or going for what’s popular. I encourage wearers to explore the various nuances and layers of my fragrances.
- What is a material whose essence you want to capture but has eluded you?
The Gardenia. I find it to be one of the most intoxicating scents. it’s so rich and sensual (borderline erotic). I hope to one day be able to capture all of its nuances in a perfume.
- Who is a perfumer that you admire and why?
Jean-Claude Ellena. His ability to create beautiful fragrances with the simplest of formulas just wows me. I also love that he focuses on creating a beautiful perfume versus something trendy, loud, or that lasts forever. Most of his perfumes are subtle and non-intrusive which I love.
